How to Winterize Your Washing Machine in Michigan

Why Michigan Winters Are Tough on Washing Machines

If you’ve ever dealt with a frozen pipe in your Grand Rapids home, you know Michigan winters don’t mess around. What many homeowners don’t realize is that washing machines are particularly vulnerable to freezing temperatures—especially if they’re in unheated spaces like garages, basements, or cottages.

When water freezes inside your washer’s hoses, pump, or internal components, it expands. This can crack the pump housing, split supply lines, damage the water inlet valve, and even rupture the drain hose. A single night of sub-zero temps can turn a $800 washer into a leaking mess that needs $300-500 in repairs—or total replacement.

The good news? Winterizing your washing machine takes about 30 minutes and can save you from expensive cold-weather disasters.

When You Need to Winterize Your Washer

You don’t need to winterize every washing machine in Michigan. If your washer is in a heated area that stays above 50°F all winter, you’re generally fine. But winterization is essential if your machine is located in:

• Unheated garages (even attached ones)
• Seasonal cottages or vacation homes near the lakeshore
• Unfinished basements with poor insulation
• Utility rooms on exterior walls with spotty heating
• RVs or mobile homes that won’t be used during winter months

Even in West Michigan’s relatively moderate climate, we see plenty of nights in the single digits or below zero. That’s all it takes.

The Complete Winterization Process

Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply

Locate the hot and cold water shutoff valves behind your washing machine. Turn both clockwise until fully closed. These are usually standard hose bibb valves, similar to outdoor faucet shutoffs.

If you can’t find dedicated shutoff valves (some older homes don’t have them), you’ll need to shut off water to that section of your house at the main valve or have a plumber install dedicated shutoffs—which is worthwhile for future maintenance anyway.

Step 2: Disconnect and Drain the Supply Hoses

Unscrew both supply hoses from the back of the washer. Keep a bucket and some towels handy—there’s always residual water in these lines.

Hold each hose end over your bucket and let gravity do its work. For hoses with significant water remaining, you can coil them on the floor with one end in the bucket to drain completely. This usually takes 5-10 minutes.

Pro tip: While you have the hoses off, inspect them for cracks, bulges, or brittleness. Standard rubber hoses should be replaced every 3-5 years. If yours look questionable, spend $15-25 on new braided stainless steel hoses when you reconnect in spring—they’re much more durable and less likely to burst.

Step 3: Clear the Pump and Internal Water

This is the critical step many homeowners skip. Even after draining the hoses, a significant amount of water remains inside your washing machine—in the pump, the internal hoses, and the tub itself.

For most front-load and top-load washers, you’ll need to access the drain pump filter:

Front-load washers: Look for a small access panel at the bottom front, usually on the right side. Open it, pull out the drain hose (if equipped), remove the cap, and let water drain into a shallow pan. Then unscrew the pump filter and remove any debris. You’ll get 1-2 cups of water from this process.

Top-load washers: Most don’t have an easily accessible pump filter. Instead, disconnect the drain hose from the back of the machine and lower it into a bucket to drain residual water from the pump and tub.

For both types, tilt the washer slightly backward (get help—even small washers weigh 150+ pounds) to encourage water to drain forward toward the pump.

Step 4: Run the Spin Cycle

Plug your washer back in temporarily and run a spin-only cycle without any water. This uses centrifugal force to remove water clinging to the drum, tub, and internal components. Let it run for 2-3 minutes.

If your washer won’t spin without detecting water first, try selecting the “rinse and spin” cycle but stop it immediately after it starts—before it fills with water. The spin portion should still work.

Step 5: Add RV Antifreeze (Optional but Recommended)

For extra protection in extremely cold locations, pour 1-2 quarts of non-toxic RV antifreeze (the pink stuff, not automotive antifreeze) into the drum. Run a spin cycle to distribute it through the internal hoses and pump. This costs $8-12 and provides insurance against any residual water you couldn’t remove.

This step is especially important for front-load washers, which have more complex internal plumbing, and for any washer that’ll face prolonged sub-zero temperatures.

Step 6: Leave the Door or Lid Open

Prop the door (front-loaders) or lid (top-loaders) open to allow air circulation. This prevents mold and mildew growth during the months your washer sits idle. It also allows any remaining moisture to evaporate.

Step 7: Winterize the Drain System

Don’t forget about the drain side. If you have a laundry sink that your drain hose empties into, pour RV antifreeze down that drain too—especially if it’s on an exterior wall. Floor drains near your washer should also get antifreeze treatment.

The drain hose itself can usually stay connected, but make sure it has no standing water and isn’t creating a low spot where water could collect and freeze.

Spring Startup: Reconnecting Your Washer

When Michigan finally thaws out (usually mid-April, though we’ve seen snow in May), reversing the winterization process is straightforward:

1. Reconnect supply hoses to the washer and wall valves
2. Turn on the shutoff valves slowly, checking for leaks
3. Run an empty hot water cycle to flush out any antifreeze
4. Check for leaks during and after the first few cycles
5. Run a normal load to ensure everything’s working properly

If you used RV antifreeze, that first hot cycle will flush it out safely—it’s non-toxic and won’t harm your plumbing or clothes in these small amounts.

When to Call a Professional

If you’re uncomfortable with any of these steps, or if you discover leaks or damage during the winterization process, that’s where we can help. At HomeHalo Appliance Repair, we service washing machines throughout Grand Rapids and West Michigan, and we’re happy to handle winterization for homeowners who’d rather leave it to professionals—or de-winterize machines that may have sustained freeze damage.

We’ve repaired countless washers that suffered winter damage: cracked pumps ($200-350 to replace), split inlet valves ($150-250), and ruptured internal hoses ($175-300). These repairs are avoidable with proper winterization.

Don’t Risk a $500 Repair Bill

Thirty minutes of prevention beats a costly spring surprise. Whether you’re closing up a cottage, concerned about your garage washer, or just want peace of mind during Michigan’s unpredictable winter weather, winterizing your washing machine is simple insurance.

If you need help with winterization, suspect your washer has freeze damage, or run into issues when restarting your machine this spring, give HomeHalo a call at (616) 367-5131. We’ll get your washing machine running safely and save you from unnecessary replacement costs.